Everything you ever wanted to know about microblading, but were afraid to ask
Permanent Scouse Brow, or face-framing delight?
WTF is microblading anyway?
I’ve got you…
Before I say anything else…
This post will assume that you’ve read the The Rules and their deep-dives
…and the Research Phase Guide to getting cosmetic work
If you haven’t yet, well…
“So… is this a tattoo?”
Not exactly.
Eyebrow tattooing is available as an aesthetic choice if you want to go down that route
I also had a ballet teacher in the 80s who had tattooed-on blue ink eyebrows as a result of overplucking, because microblading wasn’t available then.
It was A LOOK 👀.
Microblading is a cosmetic procedure - the qualifications, process and outcomes differ distinctly from tattooing.
It’s part of the ‘Permanent Make Up’ (PMU) family1 but the ‘salon fresh’ effect will last about 12-18 months. Some pigment will probably linger beyond this2 but the definition will blur.
“I’ve seen a lot of bad results. Does it ever look good?”
The same as filler and Botox: the worst versions are lavishly circulated in the press.
Also the same as filler and Botox, your result depends significantly on the expertise and ethics of your practitioner and (as with all cosmetic work), there are some horrors out there.
Types of microblading
Hair Stroke - the final effect mimics individual hairs to create a natural-looking eyebrow. This is what most people think of as microblading.
Diamond/diamant blading is also a version of this, the needle is finer and more precise
Nanoblading is also hair stroke effect, but a machine is used rather than a manual tool
Powder Brow - gives a made-up look rather than hair stroke. Done with a machine.
Ombre Brow - powder effect, but graduated rather than uniform application. Done with a machine.
Combo/Hybrid Brow - (shocker) a mixture of powder and hair stroke. Some manual, some machine
Microshading - powder look, done by hand. Usually offered in conjunction with hair stroke microblading to give a hybrid look.
3D/6D Brow - microblading that uses multiple pigment colours to more closely match your natural colour. The application of this results in quite a dense, strong look. If that’s your thing.
Microfeathering - some3 permanent make-up artists (PMUAs) use this to specify that microblading techniques are being used to enhance existing eyebrows. ‘Microfeathering’ creates a distinction between this and microblading techniques being used on someone who has no, or virtually no, eyebrows of their own.
How to research a microblading practitioner/PMUA
So, everything here still applies, but I would add 3 things that are specific to microblading. The final one of which I am going get on a massive soapbox about.
This and eyelash extensions are4 the only procedures that I think Before and After photos are helpful for.
In the case of microblading, it’s because most PMUAs have a distinct style and many of their brows end up looking largely the same.This is AWESOME if you find one whose style you like, because they will have done it hundreds of times, but don’t turn up without having looked at their work, under the assumption that they can churn out any look that you want.
Be aware that Asian and Middle Eastern brow aesthetics are different from European and choose your PMUA according to their area of expertise.If you have black or brown skin, ensure that you choose a PMUA with extensive experience of your skin tone. Melanin and skin type affect the microblading pigment.
The ‘best’ microblading studio in a major city is usually insanely expensive - upwards of £1500 in the UK and up to $5000 in the US.
Often, it’s a Big Name microblader5 who now has a stable of PMUAs under them who are still insanely expensive by association.
Equally often, those PMUAs have Instagram and will do your eyebrows at their home as a side hustle for a fraction of the cost. Slide into their DMs and ask if they do an at-home service.
This is how I found my current PMUA.Only go to someone who uses numbing cream/gel.
I was SHOCKED when I heard from friends that they’d had microblading without numbing gel. SO much so that I am now going to write an entire section about it.
Microblading fucking hurts
The 2nd time I got microblading is in the top 3 most painful procedures I’ve had. That was with numbing cream, but I scheduled my retouch appointment far too soon, for (boring) reasons.
It was excruciating after about 30 minutes and I fully cried for the last hour whilst my poor PMUA did her thing.
WITH NUMBING CREAM.
And it’s fair to say that your face feels like it’s endured 1000 papercuts for about 3 hours post-appointment.
I’ve had my microblading done by some of the best PMUAs in NY and London and have always, always been ‘numbed’ twice during each appointment (a single microblading appointment always includes 2 rounds of application).
So I was horrified to hear of 2 friends (one in the UK and one in the US, different PMUAs) who’d had their first application without numbing cream.
“The woman said the pigment wouldn’t take properly otherwise,” they both told me.
This sounded like total horseshit.
What the internet says
The only info I could find about numbing cream having a detrimental effect6 was from clinics or training schools that do not use numbing cream.
They were far outweighed by an avalanche of salons/clinics/practitioners that do use numbing cream.
I had a quick look at some of the most reputable salons in London/NY/LA and all of these use numbing for every application.
My good friend Reddit7 also had dozens of anecdotal posts with PMUAs advocating for cream, on the basis that this procedure is excruciating without it and that they’ve seen no detrimental results from using numbing agents.
What my PMUA said
What I think
There may be a slim chance that some, cheaper, pigments react less well to numbed skin.
However:
A microblading session involves a double application of pigment. If you’re in too much pain to continue, you’re not going to get a fully-loaded dose in any case
You always go for a retouch after the first appointment, so I fail to see why the first of 48 applications is so critical that you should have your face sliced up unanesthetised.
You’re at much greater risk of a fuck-up if you’re wincing and flinching in the chair. This is not a procedure that benefits from your sudden movements
Numbing adds at least 40-50 minutes to an appointment and the cream is an additional expense. I suspect the rationale here is cynically commercial rather than aesthetic.
Life is full of enough unavoidable suffering, look for literally any opportunity to reduce avoidable suffering.
Please refuse to work with any PMUAs who try to pull this shit.
They are in a minority and they are needlessly hurting women.
THEY ARE THE ANDREW TATE OF THE BEAUTY WORLD.
What to expect at the appointment
So, your Ladybird guide to microblading is as follows:
Before the appointment
You have a good idea of what outcome you want, eg:
the shape and density of your final outcome
whether you want a made-up or natural look
You’ve read this before attending your appointment:
You arrive at the appointment without makeup. They’ll only make you take it off…
At the appointment
You fill out a weirdly detailed form about your medical history
You have a good chat with your practitioner about what you want. Don’t be upsold unnecessarily9, but listen to their opinions and benefit from their expertise.
They may take photos of you. Make sure these won’t be used for promotional purposes if that would bother you10
They swab your face with alcohol/antibacterial solution. If your face is sensitive to alcohol, mention this upfront before they start cleaning you. Bring a medicated cleanser from home if you’re super, super sensitive.
They spend an ungodly amount of time measuring and drawing on your face.
This is arguably the most important phase and typically takes 25 minutes or so
They show you their vision for your brows and you look at yourself in a mirror with them as they do
. You should be an active participant in this conversation.
They can and will adjust at this stage, if you both agree that’s going to be a better outcome for you.
Once they start slicing, it’s too late
They apply numbing cream, which takes about 25 mins to activate.
At this point, or before, they’ll talk to you about the pigment colour they’re going to use. Again, be an active participant.
The first round of strokes and pigment application happens. This takes about 20-30 mins.
It feels quite weird and the sound of lots of tiny cuts in your skin takes some getting used to.
The numbing cream’s effects start to wear off after about 25 mins. If you feel pain before this, mention it to your PMUA immediately. It shouldn’t hurt, initially.
Pause. Some PMUAs will show you the state of your face at this point.
Reapplication of numbing agent and waiting.
Second round of strokes.
They will hand you a mirror and ask if you’re happy. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE.
My internal monologue is always “hmmm… is this enough? I don’t think it’s enough” and then (whether I ask for more or not) am gripped by panic for the next 96 hours that I have irretrievably ruined my face11.
If you have concerns, tell your practitioner what they are
“I don’t think it’s enough” is not a valid concern
Instead say things like: “I’m not sure it’s even”; “I’d like more [in this specific place] because I think [the outcome that you’re after]
Then listen to their response and decide how to proceed between you accordingly
They clean your face
They may take ‘After’ photos, depending on what you’ve agreed
They will give you some cream and detailed aftercare instructions
They will schedule your retouch appointment for 6-8 weeks later (this is basically identical to the first appointment. LEARN FROM MY PAIN and do not attempt to go back sooner than this12.)
You pay and leave. If you’re in the US, you will be expected to tip. Even if it cost $$$$. Yep. Tipping culture is THE WORST.
Your eyebrows will look pretty great. This is temporary 😂
After the appointment
So you really can’t do a whole lot with your head for the next 14 days.
No water, lotion, soap, or makeup in/on eyebrow area for 7 days after your appointment. This includes washing your face and showering.
Face away from the shower head when showering. Cold water is better than hot as there’s no steam.
Avoid all of these for 14 days after your appointment:
Sweating (so no gym, exercise etc, definitely no hot yoga)
Swimming
Hot sauna, hot bath, or Jacuzzi
Sun tanning (including The Electric Beach) and any exposure to UV/UVA. These can a) affect the tone of the pigment b) cause fading
Any laser or chemical treatments or peelings, and/or any creams containing retinoids or skincare acids on the treatment area
Touching the eyebrow area, including scratching or picking at scabs/flaky skin
This procedure is not for the faint of heart 😂
The worst part
Your eyebrows will look slightly terrifying at some point during the first week, but the specific day(s) will vary from person to person. I start to look like Groucho Marx almost exactly 24 hours afterwards and pretty normal from 60 hours in.
Your eyebrows will scab over, your skin may flake.
Your PMUA will have told you from which day onwards to apply the cream (it will vary based on your skin type and other factors). Do this with VERY CLEAN HANDS and a very light touch. Don’t use it as an opportunity to rub at a scab13.
Do not freak out during this time.
I know that may be tricky.
You almost certainly haven’t permanently caused a catastrophe on your face.
And if it’s faded significantly at the end of 2 weeks, that’s also ok. That’s why there’s the top-up session.
Do I think you should get microblading?
As ever, my answer is: If you can’t decide this for yourself, you’re not ready for any cosmetic work.
It is a phenomenal way to stop worrying about your eyebrows if a) this is something that preoccupies you and b) you get a good outcome.
As with all cosmetic work, be aware of the risks, choose your practitioner wisely, identify what your ideal outcome is, try not to freak out at any point and commit to the aftercare.
Until the next time x
Lip blushing, ‘permanent’ eyeliner, scar camouflage (esp for post-mastectomy women) and faux freckles are also included in this bracket
In some instances, far beyond. Often inconveniently
Not many
(I think)
Yeah, this is a thing
Which bases the theory on the cream causing swelling, which affects the positioning. Microblading is the process of slicing into the skin with a blade. That’s going to cause the skin to swell to a far greater extent, FFS.
I fucking love Reddit
Total
Do not get talked into another PMU application. You can always come back for something else another time.
It would bother me
I haven’t. I look GREAT. Ask anyone.
I had fucked the timings up and was literally leaving the country permanently before my 6-8 window was up.
I know. I want to do this too.