WTF is... exfoliation anyway?
WTF Is... is an ongoing series from Not Born With It, demystifying buzzwords and trends from the cosmetic work/wellness universes. Today: exfoliation - it's not like the old days...
So… WTF is it?
Ok, so almost all readers of this will know that exfoliation is the removal of dead skin cells from the face or body. But methods of exfoliation have come a long way, baby and you may be causing harm to the skin if you haven’t moved with the times.
How do you pronounce it?
Ex-fo-lee-ay-shun
but also
“PUT THAT FUCKING TUBE OF ST IVES DOWN”
Either one.
What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?
Exfoliation removes dead skin cells from the body after they’ve loosened from the top layer of skin1
How does it work?
OK, soooo… The body is in a constant state of decay and repair, skin is no exception. As old skin cells die, new ones are being made to replace them. The cycle time of skin rejuvenation alters as we age2, but there is always turnover.
Exfoliation is the process of getting rid of dead skin cells through physical, chemical or mechanical means.
When I was younger, the virtues of gritty, physical cleansers were extolled and I’d bet you grew up with a bottle of this knocking around the place.
20th-century physical exfoliation was all about abrasive skin removal, i.e. exfoliating products that had 'bits’ in them, e.g. sugar, nutshells, microbeads, rice bran powder and crushed seeds, or the use of mitts/cloths that were rough to the touch.
Nowadays, the advice is to use one of the following methods instead:
Physical: Hot cloth cleansing. You don’t use a specific exfoliating physical product and instead use fabric to slough the skin off.
Do not rub the material aggressively over your skin, sweeping motions are as effective and won’t leave your face raw.
You can still buy ‘abrasives’, but those are safer to use on the body, with care.
Chemical: What most 21st century skincare experts/advice refer to as exfoliants.
These are products with properties that remove skin cells, e.g. AHAs (glycolic or lactic acid)/BHAs (salicylic acid)/PHAs (all unpronounceable), azelaic acid, lactic acid. Enzyme peels also fall into this category.
Depending on your skin type, the above are safe for regular - and sometimes daily - use.
Mechanical: this includes things like microdermabrasion and dermaplaning. The Clarisonic (I loved mine dearly) was also an example of this.
Unfortunately, exfoliation is very easy to overdo at home, so it’s generally recommended that you only receive mechanical exfoliation from a trained aesthetic practitioner
And why would someone want it?
Removing dead skin cells has the following benefits:
Your skin looks brighter
Age spots and superficial scars can fade
‘New’ skin glows more than old skin
Your skin care products can be absorbed more effectively
It can help to prevent clogged pores, resulting in clearer skin and improved skin texture
Long-term exfoliating can increase collagen production both by stimulating the skin and promoting cell renewal
How much is it?
Physical scrubs are generally cheap (easily found for under £10/$10, anywhere) and some can be made at home for pennies. BE REALLY CAREFUL.
Chemical exfoliants start at around £53/$8 and go into £300-£500 range for the luxe brands that will take you for every penny that you have, given half a chance.
Mechanical methods will depend on the procedure, location and expertise of your practitioner, but will vary between around £50-£300 as a very rough guide4.
Does it hurt?
It will if you go too far. A common error in skincare is to do too much, too soon. You risk destroying your skin barrier if you’re over-zealous.
Please don’t.
Have I had it?
I have tried it ALL. ALL.
Would I have it?
I find that regular exfoliation is the best thing to keep my eczema and psoriasis at bay. Not everyone has this experience, but it definitely works for me.
I hot-cloth cleanse with a flannel at night and use glycolic acid (2-3 times a week) and azelaic acid (daily).
I also use a salicylic shampoo or pre-cleanser at least once a month. But I shed more skin than the average human.
Should you have it?
Subject to caution, there are myriad benefits to exfoliation.
It may increase your sensitivity to sunlight, especially when you first introduce into your routine. You should be using a 15-50 SPF5 daily in any case, but IF NOT then please do so on the days that you exfoliate.
Anything else I think you should know?
If you haven’t watched AND read The Princess Bride, please do so as soon as you can. Then message me about it.
Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.
If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.
Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…
The stratum corneum, fact fans
Approximate skin renewal cycle:
Babies and young children: 14 days
Teen-30: 28 days
30-50: 28-42
50+: Up to 84 days
If you’re in the UK, Superdrug do some fantastic products for a fiver (or that frequently go on sale for a fiver)
At-home devices are available, but if you didn’t know WTF exfoliation was before you read this article, for the love of god, don’t dabble in this just yet.
This will depend on where you live and your overall sun exposure, but I’m not getting into that in this post.