WTF is... glycolic acid anyway?
WTF is glycolic acid? Have I had it, would I have it, should you have it?
So… WTF is it?
It’s an exfoliating active ingredient in skincare
How do you pronounce it?
Glye-coll-ick acid
What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?
It’s a liquid exfoliant (specifically, an AHA) that removes dead skin cells that linger on the surface of the skin.
Glycolic acid has the smallest molecules of all the AHAs1, which allows for deeper penetration into the skin.
How does it work?
For at-home use, it usually comes at a 5-10% concentration and is a thin, watery liquid (sometimes clear, sometimes straw-coloured). You can either apply it directly onto your face with your palms/fingers, or apply to cotton wool and sweep2 across your face. Don’t rinse off.
Some people can tolerate daily use. For others, it’s wiser to use 2-3 times a week. Listen to what your skin is telling you.
It’s also the chief active in many chemical peels, at a concentration of up to 70%. Anything above 10% should be professionally administered by a doctor or facialist.
And why would someone want it?
If too many dead skin cells accumulate on your skin’s surface, you will get a dull complexion. Exfoliation promotes skin cell turnover and cell rejuvenation.
Glycolic acid is a straightforward and cheap method of chemical exfoliation.
How much is it?
Cheap. The Ordinary, The Inkey and Superdrug do a bottle that should last you 4 months for around £11 ($13). Superdrug often do 50% off offers on theirs and The Ordinary do 23% off all month, every November.
YES - IT’S NOVEMBER AT TIME OF WRITING - GET INVOLVED!
Many expensive ‘peel’ products are just selling you glycolic acid at an inflated price. Caveat emptor, and all that. Check the ingredients list before you splurge.
Does it hurt?
It shouldn’t. It may sting slightly for a second, but any more than that means that it’s too harsh for your skin or your cleansing regimen is too harsh. It’s often - but not always - the latter.
It also shouldn’t be used on cut/aggravated skin and will definitely sting if you do so.
Have I had it?
Yes. I used it daily (because my skin can tolerate it - and enjoys it - daily), at night, after cleansing, for about 6 years.
A note: I have eczema and psoriasis. The use of glycolic acid is contraindicated for eczema, but I found that my eczema improved/was better controlled with daily use of glycolic acid.
Would I have it?
I’m not using it at the moment as I’m incorporating a retinoid into my routine currently and it’s unwise to combine GA with a retinoid, but I’m a big fan of glycolic acid as an ingredient.
I will def reintroduce if and when it makes sense to.
Should you have it?
If you’re in the market for a chemical exfoliant, this is an effective, cheap option. As long as your skin likes it, there’s no reason not to.
It’s also handy for the upper arms (or anywhere else) if you have keratosis pilaris.
Anything else I think you should know?
Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.
If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.
Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…
A mere 76 Daltons. We’ll get to those.
Sweep! Don’t rub/scrub.