WTF is hyaluronic acid anyway?
'WTF is...?' is an ongoing series to help you navigate the many offerings of the cosmetic work/wellness universe. Today - Hyaluronic acid: WTF is it, have I had it, would I have it, should you?
So… WTF is it?
It’s a skincare ingredient that is also the primary ingredient in most fillers nowadays. It’s also produced naturally in the human body.
How do you pronounce it?
Hy-a-lure-on-ick acid
What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant1 (a substance that retains moisture). It can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water.
In the parts of the human body where it occurs naturally, (e.g. the skin, eyes and synovial fluid) it acts as a lubricant, moisturising from the inside.
It’s also commercially manufactured and can be applied topically on the skin as a moisturiser or serum. It can also be injected into the epidermis as a filler2 (e.g. Restylane, Juvéderm, many others) or as a deep hydration treatment (Profhilo).
How does it work?
It binds with water in or on the body, making it an excellent moisturiser as it traps water so that it’s retained in the skin for longer. If used topically, it doesn’t penetrate the skin’s layers, but seals water in.
When used as a filler, it’s stabilised as a gel and attracts water, binding with it to increase volume. It also promotes collagen production.
And why would someone want it?
A significant number of topical (i.e. applied onto the skin) moisturisers and skin treatments contain hyaluronic acid, due to its moisturising properties. It’ll be Hyaluronate or Hyaluronan on the ingredients list if not specifically listed as hyaluronic acid.
When injected, it has replaced paraffin (1900s), silicon (60s) and bovine collagen (80s) as the filler ingredient of choice. If you want filler, chances are you’re getting some form of HA.
How much is it?
As skincare, anything from a couple of quid to £700/$9003, depending on brand and formulation.
As filler, from around £200 per 1ml in the UK. From around $500 per unit in the US.
Has anyone I would have heard of talked about getting it?
It is everywhere, so yes, Anyone who has talked generally about moisturising skincare or filler is effectively referencing HA a lot of the time.
Have I had it?
Yes, both topically and as an injectable.
I principally use La Roche Posay, NIOD and Hada Labo4 skincare, all of whom use HA widely as an ingredient across their ranges.
I get Restylane filler and Profhilo injections.
Would I have it?
100%. We’re definitely into ‘pry it from my cold, dead hands’ territory here.
Should you have it?
It’s hard to avoid. You probably already are.
Anything else I think you should know?
Having been a hero ingredient for a couple of decades - hyaluronic acid is now getting edged out by glycerin5 for topical use in some skincare circles. They’re both good. This is win-win
You don’t need to pay a lot for really excellent hyaluronic formulations. If you’re paying over £30, there’s a good chance you could be spending that money on other things, instead.
Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.
If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.
Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…
Yes, there will be a ‘WTF is…’ a humectant
And ‘WTF is…” filler
I’m not linking to this. It’s fucking ridiculous.
I’m linking to the UK market formulations, but - full disclosure - I buy the imported Japanese products and that’s more complicated to link to. I’ve heard only good things about the UK range, I just haven’t felt the need to switch from the Japanese versions that I’ve been using for over a decade. There is a full Japanese skincare post coming soon on NBWI 😊🇯🇵 (yes, and a separate one for K-beauty too 🇰🇷)
Yes, AND GLYCERIN. Although, would it KILL YOU to use Google once in a while?