WTF is... toner anyway?
Toner - it's not like the old days...
So… WTF is it?
Remember how exfoliation no longer means what it used to mean?
Toner has gone the same way.
Where we used to apply astringents - which were frequently alcohol-based and harsh on the skin - ‘toner’ in the 21st century usually refers to a hydrating product and the formulations are totally different from the witch-hazel terrors of the 90s.
Shouldn’t this have been on the NEWS or something?
I know, right?
How do you pronounce it?
Come on.
You’re better than this.
I know you’re still a bit bamboozled by the ‘they’re not astringents any longer’ revelation, but pull yourself together.
What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?
It’s a thin, watery layer of hydrating product that often (but not always) changes the skin’s pH.
How does it work?
Toners are used to ‘condition’ the skin immediately after washing.
Human skin has a pH of about 5.5. We usually cleanse with water, which has a pH of 7.
So pH-regulating toner is recommended immediately after washing - or after glycolic acid, which has a pH of 3.8 - to get your skin to the right pH for the rest of your routine. This is known as skin-balancing.
Some skin-balancing toners include AHAs and BHAs as part of their formulation, which gives you less product to worry about, frankly.
Most toners will also contain deeply hydrating ingredients (e.g. glycerin, niacinamide/hyaluronic acid etc) and they are thin and watery in consistency.
And why would someone want it?
Toner as a hydrator was popularised by Korean (K-Beauty) and Japanese (J-Beauty) practices, both of which emphasise the application of many thin layers of product to achieve hydration and beautification.
Just to confuse you, J-beauty refers to this type of toner as ‘lotion’, but the function is largely the same as its Korean equivalent.
I know. It’s a lot. THANK GOD YOU HAVE ME, eh?
How much is it?
You don’t need to spend a huge amount on a toner. They’re typically around £6-£25 ($8-$35). There are some super-spendy ones by the luxe Japanese brands if you have £80 to throw at this, but it’s not the best use of your skincare budget.
Does it hurt?
Your toner should not sting.
If it does, either it or your cleanser(s)/cleansing methods are too harsh for your skin.
Have I had it?
I’ve used a skin-balancing toner for about 10 years.
I went DEEP into K/J beauty around then, but this is one of the only steps that I retained daily.
Would I have it?
Hydration is key in my routine to manage my eczema and it’s cheap and simple enough that I’ve never seen a reason to stop.
Should you have it?
If your main priority is a bare-bones routine, you can go without.
If you enjoy layering products, toner is a really solid foundation for the rest of your extended routine. Especially in winter, when we tend to need to give our skin a little more TLC.
I will say: the Japanese and Korean skincare industries know their shit and many Western skincare companies are now including hydrating/skin-balnacing toners in their product line-ups in response.
You don’t need an astringent toner. Even if you have highly oily skin, an astringent is more likely to aggravate your skin than to help it.
Oh, and there’s no such thing as a product that can reduce the size of your pores.
Anything else I think you should know?
The K and J Beauty movements did, regrettably, fetishise the multi-step skincare routine almost to the point of absurdity1, but toners are one of the more sustainable/less confusing2 steps if you’re looking for a boost in your routine.
Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.
If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.
Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…
TWELVE STEPS, ffs.
If you’re already confused, a consistent routine of just cleanser/moisturiser/SPF is still a) valid b) beneficial