WTF is... azelaic acid anyway?
Not just a high Scrabble score, this lesser-known alternative to retinoids might get you glowing
So… WTF is it?
It’s an active used in skincare.
How do you pronounce it?
az-uh-lay-ick acid
What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?
It’s a gentle skin exfoliant with anti-inflammatory properties.
A concentration of up to 10% is available to buy over the counter for cosmetic use.
Over 10% requires a prescription.
How does it work?
It can be used topically once or twice daily, depending on the rest of your routine.
At a 15-20% concentration, it kills acne-causing bacteria on the skin.
At lower concentrations (typically 10%) it's still an antioxidant that neutralises free radicals, lowering inflammation, which can also help in the treatment of rosacea.
AND it inhibits tyrosinase, making it an effective treatment for the prevention and treatment of hyperpigmentation.
And why would someone want it?
It can do a bunch of stuff, as above, but it’s also much gentler than many other actives so:
It can be combined easily and successfully with other actives
It can be used by pregnant women. Many other actives (especially retinoids) are contraindicated during pregnancy.
It’s less likely to trigger a reaction when used (redness, irritation, peeling).
Unlike retinoids, it does not increase skin’s sensitivity to the sun, so you can use it even if sunbathing or in bright sunlight.
How much is it?
It’s usually1 bought as a stand-alone ingredient rather than being part of a cocktail of ingredients, although it’s often also sold as an azelaic acid/niacinamide solution.
Concentrations of up to 10% azelaic acid are available without prescription and retail for anything from £10/$11-£50/$802+ for 30ml.
15% and 20% gel, cream or foam formulations are available by prescription in the UK, US and Australia.
UK - around £22 private prescription, standard NHS prescription charge applies
US - about $25 with insurance, $300 without3
Brazil - around R$50
If you’re unsure how to purchase prescription skincare, it’s all here:
Does it hurt?
It’s gentler than many actives, but you can still experience some stinging and redness when you first start using it.
As with all actives, start slow (apply only once a day) with a low concentration.
Have I used it?
Yes. I love this stuff.
I started with Finacea (15% concentration, bought via prescription) once a day in the morning, then used Tretinoin (a retinoid) at night.
When I moved to South America (Colombia, then Brazil) at the end of last year, my face started peeling immediately from retinoid. I stopped using Tretinoin and started using Finacea twice a day instead.
When I ran out, I bought a 20% concentration in Brazil4 and have been using twice a day for a month.
I’m now back in the UK and bought the 20% concentration (Skinoren) here via Boots Online for £16/30ml.
Would I use it?
I plan to carry on using it until further notice. My experience is no guarantee of yours, but my skin looks pretty great right now.
If I start using Tretinoin again (at night), I’d switch to using azelaic acid once a day, in the mornings.
Should you use it?
If you’re looking for any or all of:
skin brightening/glow
smoother skin
hyperpigmentation prevention/reduction
gentle acne treatment
chemical exfoliation
and are not using any other actives currently, this is a great place to start.
Don’t combine with AHAs/BHAs. The effects are duplicative and will strip your skin barrier. Azelaic acid is a gentler alternative to AHAs/BHAs.
If you’re using other non-exfoliating actives5 and feel you’d benefit from a boost from azelaic acid, there’s no reason not to.
Anything else I think you should know?
Azeliac acid has been under the radar for a while, but is having quite a moment just now. So if you haven’t heard about it before and it suddenly seems to be everywhere, that’s why.
Also, its effects are cumulative, so only incorporate it into your routine if you can/will keep using it regularly.
Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.
If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.
Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…
Yes, there are a handful of exceptions. Don’t @ me. If I thought they were worth your time, I would have linked them, but I don’t.
These were like-for-like product cost comparisons, not an FX conversion of prices. i.e. the most expensive item in the UK was significantly more expensive in the US.
Yes, American healthcare is entirely ridiculous.
V straightforward, via Mercado Libre
It can partner successfully with retinoids, but don’t use them in combination at the same time of day.