WTF is... dermaplaning anyway?
Dermaplaning - the ladyshave's next evolution
So… WTF is it?
Dermaplaning is a cosmetic procedure during which you or your dermatologist/facialist use a razor to scrape off dead skin cells and facial hair (often ‘peach fuzz’, but expect all facial hair to be removed if you have dermaplaning done professionally).
It is also, essentially, a marketing tool to destigmatise1 the practice of women shaving off their facial hair.
What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?
As we know:
Exfoliation removes dead skin cells from the body after they’ve loosened from the top layer of skin.
How does it work?
A dermaplaning tool looks like a small scalpel that is used in a controlled, precise way.
It’s scraped gently over the skin, removing hair and a top layer of skin, the latter being a form of mechanical exfoliation.
It can also be used to shape eyebrows without plucking.
And why would someone want it?
Smoother Skin: Exfoliation typically results in smoother, softer skin
Better Absorption: Your skincare products can penetrate better and work more effectively without the barrier of dead skin cells and hair.
Makeup Application: Foundation and other makeup products go on more smoothly
The results are also instant, with no downtime - although, as always with anything that’s impacting your skin barrier, you should still be kind to your skin for 24-72 hours, depending on your skin’s sensitivity.
Also, if you’re self-conscious about your facial hair, this process will remove it
How much is it?
To DIY at home, you can buy a dermaplaning tool for as little as £$1 and up to around £$20 for something fancy.
If you go to a salon to get it done, it varies wildly. Most salons/clinics make it a multi-stage process with hot towels and serums thrown in.
So anything from around £$20 (if you can find a salon that does just the dry removal) to £$150 for a fancier experience.
Does it hurt?
Only if your skin gets nicked - same as any other type of shaving. Because again, to stress this, dermaplaning is another name for shaving.
As with shaving, you also have to take care of your skin barrier afterwards, to prevent rashes or bumps. Gentle, unscented products are best.
Absolutely do not dermaplane if you’re using a retinoid on your face2.
Have I had it?
Yes.
Would I have it?
I have had peach fuzz on my face for as long as I can remember. It’s tolerable, but when I trained in make-up3 I quickly realised how much better foundation looked on completely smooth faces.
I also used to get fabric balls on my face if I used cheap towels4 and had to pick them off.
So, this summer I finally decided to bite the bullet and give dermaplaning a go.
I used the Tweezerman razor as I have High Trust in their tools.
I LOVED the effect - skincare and make-up application was instantly smoother and easier5, but I found the process fiddly and quite stressful. Working out the ‘right’ amount of pressure took some time and even under bright lighting, I felt I was missing bits.
2 weeks later, I noticed regrowth and decided to try waxing instead - I’ve been an enthusiastic home waxer since my teens6.
Now THIS felt life-changing.
Took under 20 seconds total, got everything and should last longer.
So, for now, I’m converted. It also had the unexpected side effect of enhancing my cheekbones - that peach fuzz was denser than I’d realised 😂.
Should you have it?
If you have concerns that it would address, it’s largely risk and pain-free if you have a steady hand. And if you don’t, it’s easy to find a pro to do it for you.
I will reiterate: do not dermaplane or wax your face if you’re using a retinoid.
Anything else I think you should know?
If you’re worried that there’s a risk that your hair will grow back thicker/darker if you remove it, this has been debunked many times over.
IT IS A MYTH.
You can dermaplane on a dry face or with a layer of oil. I tried both and found the oil easier for ‘glide’, but it was harder to tell where the hairs were.
If your primary goal is hair removal, you can just use a regular razor if you’d prefer. The benefit of the dermaplaning tool is that it allows the skin to be removed more effectively.
A lot of the salons offering dermaplaning use an enzyme mask as part of the process. That feels a bit harsh to me. Approach with caution
Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should feel you have to. There’s nothing wrong with peach fuzz. It’s literally this year’s hottest colour.
You do you, baby.
Until next time! x
Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.
If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.
Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…
Or ‘mask the reality of’, depending on your point of view
Specifically a retinoid, retinol is usually ok, depending on your skin type.
On the side, over a decade a go.
If this was at your house, rest assured, I don’t blame you.
Apols for sounding like an ad, but these are THE FACTS.
Godsend during lockdown.
Very informative! I haven’t wanted to try it because if it grew back darker I’d literally look like wolverine but maybe I’ll give it a go 😂