WTF is... double-cleansing anyway?
Are 2 cleanses better than one?
So… WTF is it?
It’s a facial skincare method.
You wash your face twice; first with an oil-based product, then with a water-based product. It’s often/usually used in conjunction with a flannel or muslin cloth.
How do you pronounce it?
“Take two bottles into the shower? Fuck yeah!”1
What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?
It’s claimed to be able to give a more ‘complete’ clean than a single wash. Which is beneficial because clean face = no clogged pores or dead skin = GLOW
How does it work?
The oil (or sometimes cream, or a balm, depending on personal preference) cleanser dissolves make-up grime and oil, making it easy to remove without scrubbing. It should be gentle enough to use over your eye area without irritation.
Oil cleansing is the gentlest way to remove make-up and SPF (much more so than make-up remover) and you shouldn’t need to tug/scrub at your face to get it all off.
Oil has a tendency to linger on the skin, though, so it’s generally beneficial to use a foamier/water-based cleanser to get rid of any oily residue and final traces of SPF2.
The second cleanser can also be used to tackle specific skin concerns, eg hydration or acne/breakouts and may involve a cleanser that you wouldn’t use on or around your eyes (eg something containing BHA/salicylic acid).
And why would someone want it?
It’s a staple of both K and J Beauty.
It’s also often recommended for anyone who wears make-up or SPF.
You would typically double-cleanse at night, to remove make-up and SPF, as well as all the crap that’s accumulated on your face during the day.
In the morning, you can choose to double cleanse, if that’s your preference, but it’s usually not required.
Obviously, if you slept in your make-up3, you should absolutely double-cleanse in the morning4.
How much is it?
2 cleansers obviously cost more than one5, but you can get both as cheaply or expensively as you feel like.
As a rule of thumb with skincare, the less time a product spends on your face, the less you need to spend on it. But if you use an expensive cleanser that gives you LIFE every time you apply it, I’m not here to talk you out of it. You're an adult. It’s your money. Enjoy it whilst you can.
Does it hurt?
At-home skincare shouldn’t hurt more than a slight sting or tingling for a second. If you feel a tingling or (worse) burning sensation, either:
Your products are too harsh for your skin type
Your method is too harsh. There’s no need to scrub away at your face
Both of the above
Double-cleaning is typically done with a flannel to wipe the cleansers off. Sweep, don’t scrub or rub manically at your face.
A muslin cloth is gentler, but I find a flannel more satisfying. I also don’t appreciate the limpness of wet muslin 🤢. You can throw in the washing machine with your towels6
On which note - don’t rub your face vigorously with your towel either. It damages your skin barrier and dampness on your face (and/or body) after cleansing helps your skincare products to seal in moisture. Just press your face gently into your towel for a couple of seconds to remove excess water and then get on with the rest of your routine. Which may just be moisturiser. That’s ok.
Have I had it?
I’ve double-cleansed for about a decade now, give or take.
In the last month or so, I’ve followed some Reddit advice7 to massage the oil into my skin for a full minute before washing off. The suggestion is that this helps with clearing pores and lymphatic drainage. I like it so far.
I used to double cleanse twice a day8, unquestioningly, but now I only do it at night9. Or on the mornings after I haven’t done it at night.
Would I have it?
I don’t plan to stop. I love a double cleanse and found it did wonders for my eczema.
Should you have it?
If you wear make-up or SPF, it’s almost certainly worth giving a try.
Anything else I think you should know?
Only that foaming cleansers have come a long way in the last decade, so if your reaction to this was: “No, hurty and dry!” then please reconsider. There are some great hydrating ones out there that won’t leave your skin feeling tight.
Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.
If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.
Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…
If you’re too young for this reference, I will be sad.
I’d actually forgotten that Vidal Sassoon went Equal Opportunities on this ad. Trail blazers in every way in the early 90s 😂
Sleeping in your SPF clogs pores and leads to spots and skin irritation. You need to remove it thoroughly at night and it can be a pain to shift.
No judgement. Really. Sometimes life comes at you 🤷♀️
And, assuming you then reapply makeup, you’d double cleanse that night too. Nothing will fall off if you do this twice a day.
#maths
You will notice if you don’t use fabric conditioner on these 😬
Not all Reddit advice is created equal, proceed with caution before following anything that you find there.
Which is what K and J beauty routines suggest.
I use a separate wash-off cleanser in the mornings, but - as I have referenced many times - I am weird and obsessive.