WTF is... your skin type anyway?
I can't answer this for you, but I can tell you what you should be asking yourself
So… WTF is it?
This one is going to be in a different format to the usual WTF Is… series, but these are the questions you should know the answers to before you buy any more skincare, ever.
Do you have thick or thin facial skin?
Your skin density affects how your skin ages.
Thick skin is more resilient, but tends to ‘droop’ as it ages. It’s often oilier, with visible pores.
Thin skin tends to be drier and is more prone to visible lines, wrinkles and thread veins.
How to tell:
Pinch your cheek at its fullest part between your thumb and forefinger. How much skin is there?
Thin skin: 0.5 cm – 1 cm
Medium skin: 1-1.5 cm
Thick skin: more than 1.5 cm of skin.
Amongst other factors, rosacea can thicken skin and menopause can thin skin, so be aware if your skin’s density changes over time.
If your skin is dry or ‘thirsty’, does it lack oil, water, or both?
To use the most effective products, it’s critical that you have this awareness.
Dry skin
Lacks essential natural oil (sebum), resulting in a rough, flaky, or dull appearance. It feels tight, itchy, or sensitive, particularly after cleansing or exposure to certain environments.
You need to apply oil back into the skin with emollients and possibly occlusives.
Dehydrated skin
Lacks water or moisture, irrespective of oil levels. It results in a lack of elasticity in the skin. Skin will probably also look dull, possibly flaky, with more pronounced fine lines.
You need to seal moisture into the skin with humectants1 and improve the hydration of your body by drinking more water and eating water-rich foods (fresh fruit and vegetables are an easy way to do this). You will need to layer an emollient on top of your humectant to trap the moisture in. You may find occlusives helpful- this will be specific to your skin and preferences.
There’s a pinch2 test for dehydration too:
Pinch the skin on the back of your hand. If you're well hydrated, the skin will return to its original position immediately. If you're dehydrated, your skin will stay in a pinched or “tented up” position for a moment before resettling.
All skin types can be dehydrated. It’s possible to have oil or dry skin that is dehydrated. I have oily, dehydrated skin. Wooo!
If your skin is dry and dehydrated, concentrate on replacing the oil in your skin with an emollient in your routine.
Use a humectant (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) and initially try to combat dehydration with diet/increased water consumption before adding any more humectant products. An emollient that also contains hyaluronic acid or glycerin might work well for you.
If you’re in aircon a lot, consider getting a humidifier.
Check that none of your skincare contains dehydrating ingredients (alcohol, sulfates, glycolic acid).
What are your skin concerns? What do you actually want to treat/prevent/improve?
This might be one, some or all of the below:
Acne/blemishes/congested skin
Rosacea
Eczema/psoriasis
Fine lines/ageing
Glow/brightness
Any products that you’re buying should be geared towards one or more of the above.
You’ll note “looking like shit” is not on this list, even though you may feel like it some days (and I’m sorry, if so).
But unless you know what specifically it is about your face that’s making you feel like shit, then you’re far more vulnerable to an advert or zealous salesperson flogging you something that you don’t need/won’t help.
What is your skin allergic/sensitive to
Frustratingly, skin tests are still relatively imprecise so all you can really do is to patch test at home (which 99% of us do not do) and monitor what you do and don’t get a reaction to. This becomes more complex if you’re using multi-ingredient products.
However, if you know that you’re specifically allergic to one product (i.e. it triggers itching, redness or puffiness), it’s worth trying to isolate what ingredient in there is causing the reaction.
And, obviously, if you know you’re allergic to a common skincare ingredient (eg lanolin, urea, essential oils, fragrance3), avoid it. Check ingredients lists, people.
Be aware of the difference between an underlying skin condition or allergy and sensitivity caused by a compromised skin barrier.
If you’ve over-exfoliated your skin or overwhelmed it with incompatible or (worse) contraindicated ingredients - leaving it red and inflamed - this isn’t the same as having intrinsically sensitive skin.
Hormonal changes
For the laaaaadies, how does your menstrual cycle impact your skin, if at all? Hormones can affect oil production, likeliness to breakout, skin consistency and a host of other factors.
For example: do you genuinely have ‘combination’ skin all month, or do you have dry skin for 21 days and oily skin for a week?
Some women ‘glow’ during ovulation, others find their skin becomes much oilier and acne-prone. Be aware of the relationship between your skin and your cycle and change up your routine during certain times of the month if necessary4.
If you’re menopausal, this can wreak havoc on your skin. Menopause will typically ultimately make your skin drier, but perimenopause can come with phases of increased oil production. You may develop eczema and some other fun stuff.
The sooner you’re aware of how your hormones affect your skin throughout your life, the better equipped you are to ring the changes when the menopause comes knocking.
Anything else I think you should know?
No. This was A LOT.
Except - you can only get a great outcome for your skin once you work out what it needs and when. Make friends with it. You’re in this together, for life. Let it be a journey, not a battle.
Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.
If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.
Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…
Unless you’re in an arrid climate, where humectants can pull too much moisture from your skin layers if there’s little to no external humidity for them to draw from.
It’s all very pinchy. Is this what they meant by one must suffer to be beautiful?
An infuriatingly open category, I agree. There’s something about artificial rose scent that makes my throat close up almost instantly, but I have no idea what/why. If you know me IRL, no rose-scented products thanks. Roses, on the other hand, are always welcome.
A period tracking app is an excellent idea for a host of reasons. I could get on my soapbox for HOURS about the ways in which women are disempowered by disassociating from their periods but that is for another day. Track your periods, track how you feel as hormones make their merry way through your body. Use that knowledge to crush.