Everything you ever wanted to know about mascara but were afraid to ask
Ok, I hear you...
Every time I write about lashes or link to a mascara, I get more questions than on any topic besides Botox.
So, here we go!
Mascara
First things first: I was late to the party on eyelash primer and IT WORKS. More volume, more length, better lash separation. GET INVOLVED.
I’d caution against the duo mascaras that have primer at one end and mascara at the other. There isn’t a product available at the moment where both the primer and mascara are best-in-class. You’ll also run out of mascara before you run out of primer, which is just annoying.
Then you need to decide whether you want regular or tubing mascara.
Regular
The type you’re probably using.
Pros
Easily available
Buildable volume
Can help hold a curl in the lash
Cons
Prone to flaking/smudging
Streaks when wet (I am yet to find a waterproof mascara that is genuinely waterproof and that has the same effect/texture as non-waterproof)
My mascara HG1 for decades has been Max Factor Masterpiece Max. It’s buildable, rarely clumps and you can re-apply over it later in the day without it flaking everywhere.
It’s not waterproof, but it holds up pretty well in the surf and at the many retreats I‘ve attended where I’ve bawled my eyes out in front of kindly strangers.
I love this stuff. It’s often on offer, and I‘ve been known to buy 6 at a time to ensure I never run out.
It’s not easily available in the US - Amazon sometimes carries it - because Max Factor was merged into Cover Girl some years ago in the US market. There isn’t a comparable Cover Girl product, devastatingly.
I have tried (so it seems) every other drugstore/luxury mascara and I’ve not found better at any price point.
Side note: I have never, ever found a good Maybelline mascara, despite being told since my teens that it was The Best.
If I had to cheat on Max, I’d go L’Oreal for drugstore - they have dozens of options, pick your poison - and Vast Lash, by my future BFF Victoria Beckham, for luxe.
Tubing
Tubing mascara has polymers that literally wrap themselves around individual lashes to form tubes.
Pros
Doesn’t flake or smudge2
Can be removed with warm water, doesn’t need eye make-up remover
Cons
Doesn’t meaningfully volumise, just lengthens and colours
Flattens curl
If you swim, it will likely come off in the water
Conversely, some find it a faff to remove. This is the beauty of the diversity of the human experience 😂
Fewer product options
Estee Lauder have long held the crown here, but this one from Hourglass is also worth your time.
It is possible to layer tubing mascara over regular mascara as a final coat, combining both benefits once you find 2 products that complement one another. Only you can decide if that’s an effort that you have time for.
Gadgets that will probably help your application
Mascara guard (yes, these are a thing)
If you’re cack-handed or if you have very long, curved lashes, you need a mascara guard in your life.
You put it over your eye and it collects all the mascara that would otherwise smear all over your brow bone.
Check the reviews before you buy and make sure you don’t buy one that will snap as soon as you apply pressure to it. There’s no need to spend a lot on these.
Eyelash comb
To separate your lashes and remove clumps after mascara application3.
If you need a mascara guard to avoid smeary mayhem, comb your lashes with the lash guard still in place.
Get one with pointy metal teeth, not plastic teeth. They are much more precise and are easier to clean. Again, no need to spend a lot. I splurged on a Tweezerman one years ago, which was not worth it.
My favourite brand is Chasty. I’ve always bought them when I’ve been in Japan where they’re v cheap. You can get them at YesStyle4 but there are cheaper brands available on Amazon in the UK and US.
The best way to clean metal lash combs is to push the teeth gently through a piece of paper. I invariably use receipts for this but any random piece of paper will work. All the mascara gets pushed satisfyingly to the base and you can then scrape off.
NB Tissue is too unwieldy for this job.
Eyelash curlers
Full disclosure: I don’t typically use these5 as my lashes have some curl to them naturally.
The Shu Uemura ones were the stuff of legend when I was a teenager and I eagerly bought a pair from the Covent Garden store on a school trip to London in the 90s, but they weren’t meaningfully better than any other Japanese brand that I subsequently used. Which hopefully makes you feel better about the fact that they left the UK and US’ shores some years ago.
Japonesque curlers are widely available in the UK and US and I strongly recommend as a brand.
Some people swear by blasting their hairdryer on their eyelash curlers before using and others go as far as buying heated lash curlers. Japonesque make one; Touch Beauty and Blinc also come highly rated if this is your bag.
Some also swear by using curlers post mascara application. I always found this clumped my lashes together and I fear it exponentially increases the risk of this happening.
Alternative eyelash-enhancing options
Lash growth serums
If you’re tempted to go down this route, read this first:
Also, be aware that there is no evidence that castor oil promotes lash growth, but it *may* make your existing lashes live a little longer before they fall out.
Lash lift/tint
It’s all here:
Eyelash extensions
I’ve written about these multiple times
This is the process of individual lashes or lash ‘fans’ being attached to your existing lashes. They last between 10 days to a month depending on your lash cycle, the quality of application and how well you care for them.
I love these and they are the only procedure that makes me feel prettier a) instantly b) when I wake up in the morning.
BUT, finding a good lash tech is incredibly - frustratingly - difficult; it’s very expensive over the long term; scheduling and maintenance are a pain and your eyes aren’t really your own whilst you have extensions.
SO. PRETTY. THOUGH.
Eyelash extensions are probably the only procedure that I’d say to take the before and after photos very seriously for. Not because of the results, but because an alarming number of (bad) techs use ‘after’ photos featuring clients with red, weeping eyes post-treatment for marketing purposes.
You should not have weeping red eyes post-treatment. FFS.
False eyelashes
These are still worth your time if you can get the application down6. They work instantly, won’t damage your lashes if used correctly and are cheaper than any other option.
There are a billion brands out there, so just buy whatever suits your aesthetic and budget.
Never, ever use the crappy glue supplied with the lashes.
The best eyelash glue is Duo. And it’s not close.
Unleash the lash!
Holy Grail.
Usually. If you have oily eyelids, you may find the oil transfers to your lashes and foils your perfect application. My condolences if so.
I usually only need to use my comb if I’m being unfaithful to my buddy Max or if I’m going for more than 3 layers of mascara.
If you have no idea what YesStyle is, it’s probably time you read this:
I still have 4 pairs though 🤦🏼♀️