WTF is... K-beauty anyway?
The skincare movement that launched a thousand sheet masks 👀
So… WTF is it?
It’s a skincare ethos and methodology that originated in South Korea.
How do you pronounce it?
Easily.
What’s the point of it? I mean, what does it actually do?
The Korean and Japanese skincare methodologies are similar and advocate for multiple thin layers of products with an emphasis on hydration and the prevention of skin-ageing.
K-beauty is also where the concept of glass skin originated from.
How does it work?
Settle in kids…
The ‘classic’ routine is 10 steps.
They are:
First cleanse (oil)
Second cleanse (water - usually foam)
Exfoliator
Toner
Essence
Serum
Sheet mask
Eye care (cream/gel)
Moisturiser/oil
SPF (daytime)/sleeping pack (night time)
Some routines will have additional steps for specific skin ‘treatments’ e.g. applying blemish patches or a facial mist or administering a facial massage.
There’s also this additional suggested process, where you layer 7 layers of toner between your cleanser and your moisturiser 2-3 times a week. Apparently Korean women have a lot of fucking time on their hands.
In addition to the actives that you’d expect in skincare, ingredients widely seen in (and mostly specific to) K-beauty are:
Green tea
Snail mucin
Rice water
Bee venom/propolis extract/royal jelly
Centella Asiatica
The products also have a wide range of textures and consistencies.
And why would someone want it?
It became wildly popular in the US the mid 2010s, to the point of fetishisation and that influence spread. South Korea and New York share similar climates (harsh winters and humid summers), this may be why US consumers adopted it so readily.
At the time, US and European skincare tended towards harsh astringents and thick emollients. Asian skincare offered a lighter and gentler approach.
Cynically, Asian skincare is much easier to market to the under 30s, who don’t need the thicker, active-laden moisturising products of their older cohorts. And the emphasis is skewed heavily towards ‘prevention’, giving a huge incentive to get involved from a young age.
How much is it?
The individual products themselves are relatively cheap (from £4/$5 to around £35/$40), but the sheer volume of products adds up if you follow all the steps slavishly.
There are some fantastic products to be had in K-beauty, but the cost of the whole regime is pretty high if you commit to it fully.
Does it hurt?
At-home skincare shouldn’t hurt more than a slight sting or tingling for a second. If you feel a tingling or (worse) burning sensation, either:
Your products are too harsh for your skin type
Your method is too harsh. There’s no need to scrub away at your face
Both of the above
Have I had it?
I did follow this slavishly for about a year. I moved to NY in 2015 and my eczema got v v bad. I would realise months later that I needed a humidifier on my desk at work, and this soothed my skin within days1 but before that, I was doing it ALL, in the hope that I could sort my face out.
It was exhausting.
Would I have it?
There are brands and practices that I’ve kept up.
I’m trying to simplify my routine right now, but the layering of thin, watery hydrating definitely compliments my combination skin, which is oily, but tends towards dehydration and with eczema and psoriasis.
Should you have it?
At a minimum, try the Innisfree green tea sleeping mask on your next flight.
K-beauty has a lot of effective products, brands and ingredients that the ‘WTF Is’ format doesn't support a deep-dive into. But there’s a good stuff to be had if you fancy a dabble.
Oh, but lay off the sheet masks. They’re as more effective as just applying a ton of serum onto your skin and they’re terrible for the environment. Try slugging instead.
Anything else I think you should know?
I could go on for days, but this post is LONG ENOUGH.
Disclaimer: ‘WTF is…’ guides are intended to be a 3-5 minute introduction to a topic. They are, by their nature, not exhaustive.
If you have a concern that I’ve irresponsibly included/omitted information, don’t hesitate to get in touch to let me know and I’ll take a look.
Reminder that any cosmetic work undertaken should be in accordance with The 6 rules of cosmetic work. Here they are, in case you missed them the first time…
Along with some medicine that I got from a Peruvian shaman at an ayahuasca retreat in Iquitos, but that’s a story for another day.